Hungarian Palatschinken

Celebrating democracy in Hungary with a humble family recipe.

When I finally I appeared on the Rothkopf timeline, my Grandma Jenni was well into her 70s and finally relaxing after a very challenging life, Her family had been devastated by the Holocaust, and she had a very demanding husband, immigrated with my father and grandfather to the United States, and worked for years of doing piece work as a seamstress.

Grandma Jenni was probably a very good cook, but by the time I was old enough to stand near her at the stove, she only ever made three dishes, each a perfect example of the food she grew up with in Sopron, Hungary — then Austro-Hungary.

When she visited us in New Jersey, we demanded she make wiener schnitzel and cucumber salad. On rare occasions there would be palatschinken, an eggier, less delicate version of a crepe, popular in Hungary, the Czech Republic, and Austria.

It was my grandmother’s palatschinken I thought of when Péter Magyar was elected prime minister of Hungary.

I was only 12 when Grandma died, but, along with the enduring memories of her cooking, I remember her viscerally: as warmth, comfort, and softness.

I hope you try this recipe and celebrate not only the overthrow of Viktor Orbán and the hopeful message of re-democratization that comes with it, but also the joy and love that a humble family recipe can bring.

Notes:

• Palatschinken are traditionally filled with apricot jam, but do what makes you happy. Plum butter (povidl in German) or walnuts ground with sugar are also popular fillings. Chocolate-hazelnut spread is a more modern approach that I gleefully recommend. I’ve no doubt Jenni would approve.

• My grandma (and later my “Uncle” Walter, who would make us palatschinken when he visited) didn’t believe in serving the jam-filled pancakes with anything fancier than a sprinkle of powdered sugar on top. That said, a drizzle of chocolate sauce and some whipped cream….

• Palatschinken can be made ahead and refrigerated until ready to serve. Reheat the pancakes in a 325°F/160°C oven, uncovered, until the filling is warmed through and the edges begin to crisp a little.

• Try to use a good-quality apricot jam, such as the Austrian brand D’Arbo, which isn’t as sweet as most American brands.

• Savory fillings work just as nicely. Leave out the 1 tablespoon of sugar. Whiz up some cottage cheese or ricotta with some herbs and Parmesan cheese, or ham and cheese and then bake in the oven for 15 minutes until warm and heated through. Sprinkle with paprika to keep the Hungarian vibe.

Marissa Rothkopf Bates writes about food for the New York Times, Newsweek (RIP) and Publishers’ Weekly among others. Her newest book, “The Secret Life of Chocolate Chip Cookies,” is available wherever fine books are sold. Find her on Substack here.

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