Lemon posset meets Eton mess

A dish popular since Aristotle's time gets an upgrade. You know who else loved posset? Shakespeare.

“Yet be cheerful knight: thou shalt eat a posset to-night at my house;

Where I will desire thee to laugh at my wife.”

—Shakespeare, The Merry Wives of Windsor, Act 5, Scene 5

Indeed, today we make posset. It was good enough for Shakespeare, and so for us. Mind you, the other mention of posset in the Bard’s work was when Lady Macbeth drugged possets that were then fed to Duncan’s grooms.

(Now, please turn around three times, spit over your left shoulder, and click the heart-shaped like button above to make the algorithm happy.)

Luckily, the modern posset is much simpler than the posset of yore. My recipe today simply calls for cream, lemon juice and zest, and sugar.

Yet, back when Aristotle’s friend Theophrastus was writing and philosophizing (371–287 BCE), posset contained wine, groats, cheese, and herbs and “drugs that only remain suspended if continuously stirred.” Posset could improve your health, but, beware, it was also responsible for boorishness, according to Theophrastus’ Characters:

“The Boor is one who, having drunk a posset, will go into the Ecclesia. He vows that thyme smells sweeter than any perfume; he wears his shoes too large for his feet; he talks in a loud voice. He distrusts his friends and relatives, but talks confidentially to his own servants on the most important matters; and recounts all the news from the Ecclesia to the hired laborers working on his land. Wearing a cloak which does not reach the knee, he will sit down. He shows surprise and wonder at nothing else, but will stand still and gaze when he sees an ox or an ass or a goat in the streets. He is apt also to take things out of the store-room and eat them; and to drink his wine rather strong.”

Posset was again popular in the Middle Ages, at which point the recipe evolved to be less, er, chunky. Cream, wine, spices, eggs, and sugar were boiled to make a thick mixture. Possets were still considered to be medicinal, with herbs and other homeopathic remedies incorporated into the drink.

In the 17th and 18th centuries, posset hit the big time and became a party drink. Rich folks had special spouted vessels made that allowed the frothy wine-rich mixture to be drunk, and then the curdled, flavored milk that had risen to the top could be eaten with a spoon.

Take a look at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s collection of posset pots and cups.

The Modern Posset

The modern posset is a far simpler dish: no orange water, no froth, no wine, and I’m not sure what Ms. MacBeth used, but poison would certainly prevent the dish from setting properly. Today’s posset is similar to panna cotta, but better, and, if done well, should have the yielding and smooth texture of soft-serve ice cream. And, best of all, it takes no time to make and can be made ahead.

Plain and Fancy

I’ve put a little twist on modern posset by crumbling store-bought meringues into the posset before it sets. Then, just before serving, I’ll scatter berries and more meringues on top, in a nod to Eton mess, one of my family’s favorite desserts. You can, of course, enjoy posset plain and simple, with merely a sprinkle of zest on top.

Cooking Notes:

· Possets can be made a day ahead of whatever occasion you wish to serve them at.

· You can easily double or halve the recipe.

· You can substitute orange, lime, or yuzu for the lemon.

· Portion your possets into aperitif glasses, old jam jars or martini glasses. Only your imagination can hold you back, etc., etc.!

· Bringing possets to a party? Pour personal portions of posset into plastic cups. (Say that 10 times fast.)

· Let me know your posset innovations.

Update: A few weeks ago, I made a cake in honor of Cory Booker’s filibuster. Today, at a birthday celebration for him, I presented him the cake!

Lemon Posset

Makes 4 1/2 cup-sized portions

What You’ll Need:

· 400 ml heavy whipping cream

· 1/2 cup (100 grams) granulated white sugar

· 6 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice (about 3 large lemons)

· Zest of 2 lemons (about 3 tablespoons of zest)

· Berries for decoration

· Possible additions: coconut macaroons, meringues, amaretto biscuits

What You’ll Do:

1. In a medium saucepan, stir together the heavy cream and the sugar. bring the mixture to a boil over medium heat, stirring occasionally. Let the mixture boil for 2 1/2 minutes, stirring constantly.

2. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the lemon juice and 2 tablespoons of the zest.

3. Decant the mixture into your designated serving vessels. If you are going to add chopped cookies or hunks of meringue, drop them in. Don’t stir them in.

4. Refrigerate until firm, at least two hours or overnight.

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