Savory cheddar madeleines with a kick

A France-U.S. alliance

“Rugby is a game for barbarians played by gentlemen. Football is a game for gentlemen played by barbarians.”—Oscar Wilde

I don’t watch the Super Bowl. It’s Six Nations rugby season here in France. But whichever sport one watches, food is in order. I know Americans make a big deal about what to cook and bake for the big event, so I decided to conjure something up that would bring these two countries—my two countries—together. Though I have succumbed to French culture, I am still very much attached to my country of birth (which I still call “home”). Especially in all things food.

While France and the United States are experiencing a bit of… turbulence, let’s call it, putting our friendship on shaky ground, we can never forget the Franco-American Alliance of 1778, a military pact in which the French provided supplies for the Americans during their own revolution. Though the relationship was disrupted shortly after and might have soured again in the past few weeks—can we please forget the whole Freedom Fries thing?—France was the first country to have diplomatic ties with the new United States.

A new world order reigns.: With the United States in a constitutional crisis and France teetering on a far-right takeover, sportsmanship might be the last thing on our minds. But in the spirit of detente—and distraction—we all could use a plate of something good in front of an exciting game of football. Or rugby.

I wanted to bring the two countries together in one recipe we both could enjoy, something to calm the current troubled waters between our two nations (and, seriously, in our souls). I took Proust’s madeleine and gave it a Texas kick.

“Part of the secret of success in life is to eat what you like and let the food fight it out inside.”—Mark Twain

Savory Cheddar Madeleines with Olives, Chives & Tomato Tapenade

10 black Greek-style olives

1.75 oz, about ½ cup (50 grams) finely grated sharp cheddar cheese

1 tablespoon minced chives or fresh coriander/cilantro

¾ cup + 2 teaspoons (3.5 oz/100 grams) flour

1 ½ teaspoons baking powder

¼ teaspoon salt

3 – 4 grinds of black pepper

½ teaspoon or more chipotle chili powder (or Ccayenne)

2 tablespoon olive oil

1 ½ tablespoons (20 grams) unsalted butter, just melted then cooled at least slightly

4 tablespoon milk

2 large eggs, lightly beaten to blend

1 tablespoon dried tomato tapenade

Pit the black olives, place them in a fine sieve and run under cold water until the water runs off clear or nearly clear; you want to wash away the black so as not to discolor the madeleine batter. Chop the olives and add to the finely grated cheddar cheese and the minced chives or coriander.

Mix or whisk the dry ingredients—flour, baking powder, salt, black pepper, and chipotle chili powder—together in a mixing bowl.

Whisk together the olive oil and butter and add to the dry ingredients along with the milk and eggs. Whisk well until the batter is smooth; there should be no lumps.

Stir and fold in the cheese, olives, and herbs until blended and the flavorings are well and evenly incorporated.

Place the bowl in the refrigerator for about 20 minutes while the oven preheats. The batter will firm up slightly while it chills.

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Butter a madeleine mold (even if it is non-stick).

Once the batter is chilled and the oven preheated, take the batter from the refrigerator; break up the tablespoon of tomato tapenade and distribute it across the top of the batter; using the blade of a sharp knife, swirl the tapenade throughout the batter without blending it in.

Spoon the batter into the prepared molds, filling each mold only about ¾ full. Bake in the preheated oven for 10 to 25 minutes, depending on the size of the madeleines and your oven. The madeleines will be done when they have risen, are set in the center (press lightly) and are a light golden brown. Remove from the oven, allow to sit for couple of minutes before carefully lifting the madeleines out of the tin to a cooling rack.

Butter the molds again if refilling to finish baking the rest of the batter.

Jamie Schler is an American living in France. She owns a hotel and writes the Substack Life’s a Feast.

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